Difference between revisions of "Builder Tips, Tricks, and Modifications"
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Revision as of 20:45, 6 February 2015
This page will contain your Builder Tips and Tricks. Please share your thoughts on how best to organize this information. I think by aircraft system is probably best, rather than by submitting user, but I'm flexible. Here are some beginning categories.
CLICK THE TEXT, not the picture, to get to the article!!!'
Contents
Specific Tips
NACA or Nose Cooler or Heat Mods
Keel Seal |
Nose Heat Control |
NACA Inlets |
Nose_Oil_Cooling |
Gear Leg Heatshield |
Updraft to Downdraft Conversion |
Cowling Mods
Cowl Inlet Door |
Screwless Cowl |
Custom Cowling |
Air Filter Installation |
Ground Hot Air Vent |
|
Door Mods
Air Stair/Split Door |
Really Big Hatch |
Hendricks door latch | |||
Forward Hinged Doors |
Door Latch Safety |
Smoother Door Latch | |||
Door Gas Springs |
[] |
[] |
Strake or Fuel Mods
Fuel Sump Sensor |
Fuel Strakes |
Extended_Strake_Elbow |
Fuselage Mods
[[Image:|225px]] [[]] |
[[Image:|225px]] [[]] |
[[Image:|225px]] [[]] |
Control Mods
Center Stick Reinforcement |
[[Image:|225px]] [[]] |
[[Image:|225px]] [[]] |
Misc Mods
Draggage Pod |
Aircraft Tracking |
225px Fixed Gear Fairing Modification |
MT Prop Rebuild |
Condition Inspection |
FLIR Forward Looking Infrared |
Trim or Control Modifications
Shimmy Damping Mods
Nylon Belleville Anti-Shimmy |
Mishler Nose Lock |
Millin Factory Shimmy Damper |
Nose Wheel Shimmy Damper |
||
Brake Mods
SE "Old Style" Brake Parts |
Brake Relining/Pads |
Landing Gear Mods
Landing Gear Cylinder Rebuild |
Fixed Gear Replacement Bumper |
Mishler nose gear |
Main Gear Booties |
Retractable Nosewheel | |
Retract Pump and Cylinder Rebuild |
||
Franklin Tips
Franklin Oil Bypass |
Other Franklin Information |
|
Building Space or Shop or Moving Tips
1 Man Wing Support |
Move fuselage with Spar installed |
Wing & Canard Rack |
Wing Jacks |
General Tips
General | Controls | Paint | Fuselage | NACA Ducts | Emergency Procedures |
Wings | Engine | Avionics | Interiors | Test Flying | Tow/Tug |
Prop | Spinner | Finishing | Landing Gear | Electrical Power | Nose_Wheel_Shimmy_Dampener |
Engine Installations
V8 Engine | V6 Engine | Subaru Engine | Mazda Engine | TIO-540 | Franklin Engine |
Oil Cooler Turning Vanes
Not great pictures but I managed to stick my phone into the nose of the airplane to get pic of each side of the oil duct.
What I did was remove the duct, do a micro fill & sand job on the inside to smooth it up. Mine was really rough and had numerous bumps and edges inside..
Then carve curved matching slots in the two sides of the oil duct. Just thick enough to slide thin aluminum through.
Then cut out aluminum vanes. Each aluminum piece slides through both sides of the duct slots creating turning vanes. Slots are about 1 inch apart. I left tabs on the ends of the vanes that were then folded against the sides of the oil duct. Then a few layers of bid over the tabs and sides of the duct to seal the slots to the vanes and restore the oil ducts strength.
The shiny squares you see in the pic are the aluminum tabs
Scott
Toe Brakes
We've retrofitted our XL to use the toe-brake option from the factory. We will eventually add the cast aluminum pedals, but currently have the two separate pedals on both sides. The pilot side master cylinders go to the brakes on the lower end, and the tops go to teh copilot lower master cylinder connections, and the copilot upper connections run to the new resevoir. Note also that the new system requires Mil-Spec 5606 fluid (like the retracts use in the hydraulics).
Installation Instructions