Velocity Aircraft Wiki - User contributions [en]

http://wiki.velocityoba.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=AndyMillin Velocity Aircraft Wiki - User contributions [en] 2026-09-11T12:11:48Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.33.0 https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15892 Builder's Websites 2020-12-10T20:24:01Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin] [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRQ7-PaUdKUUxz1isjQ_oYw Videos]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br/><br /> [http://umeno.kal-soft.com Hiroo Umeno SUV/SE]<br/><br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://http://www.legacy-innovations.com/BuildingVelocityVTwin/ Ron Jones]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15891 Builder's Websites 2020-12-10T20:18:43Z

<p>AndyMillin: Added Ron Jones</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br/><br /> [http://umeno.kal-soft.com Hiroo Umeno SUV/SE]<br/><br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://http://www.legacy-innovations.com/BuildingVelocityVTwin/ Ron Jones]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Wing_%26_Canard_Rack_new&diff=15890 Wing & Canard Rack new 2020-11-23T13:57:58Z

<p>AndyMillin: Reminder of critical dimension</p> <hr /> <div>Moving and storing your wings and canard can present challenges. Although they are not particularly heavy, they are awkward. Without taking extraordinary measures, they should not be moved by one person. The following is a design for a wing and canard rack for the Velocity. When mounted on casters, it stores them nice and snug and makes moving them a breeze. I first saw this design in a picture of Craig Woolston and John Schrool's plane. The MS Word Design was drawn up by Jorge Bujanda and was passed on to me by John Tvedte. I personalized the design a bit and drew up the color drawing.<br /> <br /> Note the important dimensions on the end are 11" and 7". These dimensions allow for the taper of the wing.<br /> <br /> -- Andy Millin<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ConProjects.html "Jorge's Website with detail of his Wing & Canard Rack"]<br /><br /> [[File:Wing Rack Plans.doc| Jorge's MS Word Plans]]<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> File:Wing-Rack.jpg|Velocity Wing Rack Drawing<br /> -- Andy Millin<br /> File:100_1175.jpg|Woolston - Schrool Rack<br /> <br /> File:Bujanda_Rack.jpg|John Tvedte's Rack<br /> File:Tvedte_Rack_1.jpg|John Tvedte's Rack<br /> File:Tvedte_Rack_2.jpg|John Tvedte's Rack<br /> File:Millin_Rack_1.jpg|Andy Millin Rack<br /> File:mobilewingrack1.jpg|Jorge Bujanda's Rack<br /> <br /> File:mobilewingrack2.jpg|Jorge's Rack<br /> </gallery></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15887 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T18:40:51Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br/><br /> [http://umeno.kal-soft.com Hiroo Umeno SUV/SE]<br/><br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15886 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T18:40:04Z

<p>AndyMillin: Added Hiroo Umeno</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> [http://umeno.kal-soft.com Hiroo Umeno SUV/SE]<br/><br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15885 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T17:13:11Z

<p>AndyMillin: Updates</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> <br /> === SUV ===<br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> <br /> === 173 ===<br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15884 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T17:07:51Z

<p>AndyMillin: Add twin</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> <br /> === SUV ===<br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> <br /> === 173 ===<br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Twin ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/johnkuebler/ John Kuebler]<br/><br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15883 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T16:59:59Z

<p>AndyMillin: Add new site</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra IO-540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones IO-550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston IO-550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger -5]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=VelocityXLRG-5 Patrick Mayworm -5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=DonWhiteVelo/ Don White]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> <br /> === SUV ===<br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> <br /> === 173 ===<br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Standard ===<br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15882 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T16:52:31Z

<p>AndyMillin: Added 2 new sites</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard XL/RG IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra XL/RG IO540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones XL/RG IO550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson XL/RG (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston XL/RG IO550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky XL/RG TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz XL/RG IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley XL/RG IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf XL/RG IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars XL/RG IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=CarrigerXLRG Duane Carriger XL/RG-5]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko XL/FG]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda XL/FG IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson XL/FG]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell XL/FG IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin XL/FG IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford XL/FG] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders XL/FG IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold XL/FG]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Chris Davis SE/RG Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=DonWhiteVelo]Don White<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles]<br/><br /> [https://eaabuilderslog.org/?s=lhileman Lee Hileman]<br/><br /> <br /> === SUV ===<br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> <br /> === 173 ===<br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Standard ===<br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder%27s_Websites&diff=15881 Builder's Websites 2020-11-20T16:29:15Z

<p>AndyMillin: Remove dead links. Add new pages.</p> <hr /> <div>== Builder Websites ==<br /> === Retract XL ===<br /> [http://brainard.kal-soft.com/ Jerry Brainard XL/RG IO-540 N202VB]<br/><br /> [http://velocity.claychase.com Clay Chase XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://goldman.velocityxl.com/ Steve Goldman XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://www.rguerra.com/velocity Rich Guerra XL/RG IO540 MT N724X]<br/><br /> [http://homepage.mac.com/avyator/VelocityXL/Menu6.html Nick Jones XL/RG IO550 ]<br/><br /> [http://robjohnson.velocityxl.com/ Rob Johnson XL/RG (archived)]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocity-xl.com/ Don Johnston XL/RG IO550]<br/><br /> [http://khasky.kal-soft.com/ Albert Khasky XL/RG TSIO-550]<br/><br /> [http://buildvelocity.wordpress.com Reiff Lorenz XL/RG IO-550 N142AZ] [https://www.youtube.com/user/ReiffL/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://marksvelocity.blogspot.com/ Mark Riley XL/RG IO-540]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/VE7JTE James Traynor XL/RG]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=brkwlf&project=1904&category=0 Brooke Wolf XL/RG IO-550 N108BG]<br/><br /> [http://www.bzvelocity.com Byron Zollars XL/RG IO-550 N20VZ]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear XL ===<br /> [http://websites.expercraft.com/mbuc310/ Matt Bucko XL/FG]<br/><br /> [http://www.jbujanda.com/ Jorge Bujanda XL/FG IO-540 MT N478B]<br/><br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/maddog Michael Dawson XL/FG]<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityxl.com Brett Ferrell XL/FG IO-540 Catto N44VF] [https://www.youtube.com/user/bferrell/videos Videos]<br/><br /> [http://www.kal-soft.com/velocity Andy Millin XL/FG IO-540 AeroComposits]<br/><br /> [http://huntingford.kal-soft.com/ Bob Huntingford XL/FG] [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhuntingford (old site)]<br/><br /> [http://siedersvelocity.wordpress.com/ Patrick Sieders XL/FG IO-540 Turbo]<br/><br /> [http://trautschold-velocity-xl.com/ John Trautschold XL/FG]<br/><br /> <br /> === Retract SE ===<br /> [http://www.mykitlog.com/N902SC Steve Campbell SE/RG]<br/><br /> [http://velocityinparadise.blogspot.com/ Andrew Cole SE/RG] <br/><br /> Chris Davis SE/RG [https://www.youtube.com/user/savethedeveloper/ Videos]<br/><br /> [http://seeourairplane.wordpress.com Rick Eparvier Long-wing SE/RG]<br/><br /> <br /> === Fixed Gear SE ===<br /> [http://n526ej.niles.space/ Jeff Niles SE/RG]<br/><br /> <br /> === SUV ===<br /> [http://www.freewebs.com/aerospaceteam/aerospacenews.htm Lewis SUV Granger High School West Valley City Utah]<br/><br /> <br /> === 173 ===<br /> [http://v20.velocityxl.com/venky/index.html G A Venkatesh 173/FG (archived)]<br/><br /> <br /> === Standard ===<br /> [http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/minckler/Velocity_N293cm.htm Kevin Minckler Standard/FG]<br /> <br /> == Other Suppliers ==<br /> === Specialty Suppliers ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.strongpitchtrim.com/ Strong Pitch Trim]<br/><br /> [http://www.dreamaero.com/ Mishler Nose Wheel Lock]<br /> <br /> === General Materials ===<br /> <br /> [http://www.aircraftspruce.com Aircraft Spruce]<br/><br /> [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/ Wicks]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Millin_Factory_Shimmy_Damper&diff=15798 Millin Factory Shimmy Damper 2019-11-04T20:12:03Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Prior to the development and installation of the Scotts Performance Damper, the primary means of preventing shimmy was a compressed stack of Bellville washers. This solution has been around for decades. It is a simple, elegant solution that works well within limits. The Bellville Washer Solution (BWS) creates a resistance to turning. An increase in the compression of the washers creates an increase in the breakout and turning force of the nose gear fork. BWs are not a shimmy damper; they are a shimmy preventer. By keeping a high enough breakout force, movement that could initiate a shimmy event is essentially locked out.<br /> <br /> There are downsides to the BWS solution. If the stack looses compression, there will not be enough resistance to stop shimmy. In the Velocity installation this means checking the big nyloc nut on the nose gear is tight before each flight. Even if the nut is tight in the pre-flight, it may work itself loose during taxi or takeoff.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Andy Millin worked with the factory to prove out this design, with some input from Velocity motorcycle racer Bill Mulrooney. It's a damper from Scotts Performance mounted on the nose fork.<br/><br /> <br /> First you must drill the gear leg and insert a roll pin, or ship your gear leg back to the factory and have them do it. The only thing I don't like is not being able to rotate the gearleg 180 degrees, an issue that apparently was resolved somehow on the retract.<br/><br /> <br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> |[[Image:Andy_Shimmy_1.jpg|300px]]<br /> |[[Image:Andy_Shimmy_2.jpg|500px]]<br /> |-<br /> |Installing Roll pin<br /> |Mount damper<br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Rene Dugas ==<br /> Just got my Damper back and mounted. Looks real cute. Easy taxi now. Thought some might wish to zoom in on the tire to see how violent a shimmy can be. All the cross hatching is result of recent mild shimmy. 35# pressure in tire and 15 # of tension measured with a fish gage just before flight. Solo flight, 3/4 fuel, smooth runway. Slight cross wind crab corrected well I thought. 600 hrs in Velocity. <br/><br /> <br /> Those who have not had a bad one beware it is violent. Not like a Cessna. <br/><br /> <br /> Rene<br/><br /> <br /> [[Media:Scott Shimmy Dampener.pdf|Scott Brochure]]<br/><br /> <br /> [[Image:Rene Shimmy Small.JPG|Retract version installed on Rene' Dugas' N129RD]]<br /> [[Image:Scott Dampener.jpg|300px]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Rene_Practice.gif&diff=15740 File:Rene Practice.gif 2019-02-20T15:50:59Z

<p>AndyMillin: Renè knows the answer</p> <hr /> <div>Renè knows the answer</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15739 Fuselage 2019-01-29T19:00:35Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Plastic Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.<br /> <br /> === Click Bond ===<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Clickbond.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Clickbond specializes in bonded fastners. Some might find their products pricey. They are high quality. Quantity discounts are available. They come with their own epoxy based adhesive.<br /> <br /> [https://www.clickbond.com/ clickbond.com]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15738 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:59:28Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Plastic Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.<br /> <br /> === Click Bond ===<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Clickbond.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Clickbond specializes in bonded fastners. Some might find their products pricey. They are high quality. Discounts can be had by purchasing in quantity and at Oshkosh. The come with their own epoxy based adhesive.<br /> <br /> [https://www.clickbond.com/ clickbond.com]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15737 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:58:10Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Plastic Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.<br /> <br /> === Click Bond ===<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Clickbond.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Clickbond specializes in bonded fastners. Although some might find their products on the pricey side they are first rate quality. Discounts can be had by purchasing in quantity and at Oshkosh. The come with their own epoxy based adhesive.<br /> <br /> [https://www.clickbond.com/ clickbond.com]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Clickbond.jpg&diff=15736 File:Clickbond.jpg 2019-01-29T18:45:31Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15735 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:41:22Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* Plastic Cable Tie Mounts */</p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Plastic Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15734 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:40:45Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Plastic Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can come release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15733 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:37:16Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* Velcro Tie */</p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Adhesive Backed Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can come release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Ties ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15732 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:36:59Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* Velcro Tie Mounts */</p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Adhesive Backed Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can come release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Tie ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15731 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:35:57Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Adhesive Backed Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> Image:Cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. They can be purchased with or without an adhesive back.<br /> <br /> The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can come release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Cable_tie_mount.jpg&diff=15730 File:Cable tie mount.jpg 2019-01-29T18:33:16Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15729 Fuselage 2019-01-29T18:33:01Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuselage Tips<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Securing Wires ==<br /> <br /> There are a number of ways to secure wire bundles. Most involve cable/zip ties or Velcro.<br /> <br /> === Adhesive Backed Cable Tie Mounts ===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> Cable tie mounts are cheap and readily available. The adhesive backed mounts require a very clean surface before application. Even under perfect circumstances they can come release over time.<br /> <br /> Builders have had success by pop-riveting them on. Others have removed the adhesive pad and potted them in place with epoxy.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Panduit Tie Mounts===<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Panduit.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Don Johnston used these. They are available on Amazon. Search for part MBMS-S10-CY. Don attached them with structural adhesive.<br /> <br /> === Fiberglass Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> You can fabricate tie mounts out of scrap glass cloth.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Jones wire secure 1.JPG|Bond in place<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 2.JPG|Hold wires with zip ties<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 3.JPG|Glass laid over wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 4.JPG|Wire form<br /> Image:Jones wire secure 5.JPG|Cut into sections<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Nick Jones. <blockquote>A friend of mine, Marco Crivellari turned me onto these. I think he got the idea from Nick Ugolini at rough river. You can make then out of scrap fiberglass.</blockquote><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Dugas wire secure 1.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Renè Dugas. <blockquote>Have made angle fiberglass of 3 layers of bid with two holes drilled for zip ties. Made mine by clamping a 2x4 to to a flat surface then applied a layer of aluminum duct tape to the flat surface and the vertical edge of the 2x4. Aluminum tape is just smoother than regular duct tape. The layup is placed in the angle and allowed to cure. It then easily pops off when the 2x4 is removed. The resulting “L” channel is cut with a band saw into the height and width desired. More layers can be applied to make stronger “L” brackets for tubing and other supports. These brackets were kept in a box for trimming and applied when needed a where needed with the edges and corners sanded.</blockquote><br /> <br /> === Velcro Tie Mounts ===<br /> <br /> Velcro also works well. <br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 3.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Jorge Bujanda wrote an article explaining how he used it in the Fall 2017 Velocity News (Screwless Cable Ties). Jorge bonded the "fuzzy" size of the Velcro to the surface using 5-minute epoxy.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Velcro wrap 1.JPG<br /> Image:Velcro wrap 2.JPG<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> Reiff Lorenz.</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Fuselage&diff=15728 Fuselage 2019-01-29T17:46:21Z

<p>AndyMillin: Created page with "Securing Wire Bundles"</p> <hr /> <div>Securing Wire Bundles</div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

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<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Adhesive_cable_tie_mount.jpg&diff=15717 File:Adhesive cable tie mount.jpg 2019-01-29T17:40:18Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder_Tips,_Tricks,_and_Modifications&diff=15716 Builder Tips, Tricks, and Modifications 2019-01-29T16:08:38Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This page will contain your Builder Tips and Tricks. Please share your thoughts on how best to organize this information. I think by aircraft system is probably best, rather than by submitting user, but I'm flexible. Here are some beginning categories.<br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''CLICK THE TEXT''', not the picture, to get to the article!!!'<br/><br /> <br /> == Specific Tips ==<br /> Find data on Velocity [[Props]]<br/><br /> Velocity [[Glossary]]<br/><br /> [http://velocityowners.com/content.aspx?page_id=2 Current Events]<br/><br /> <br /> === NACA or Nose Cooler or Heat Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:keelseal.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Keel Seal]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:cooler blower 001 a.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose Heat Control]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:1naca.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[NACA Inlets]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Velocity_Building_020_143.jpeg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose_Oil_Cooling]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:NACA_FlowTest_0150.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[NACA_Ducts]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:NACA-LR.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Updraft to Downdraft Conversion]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Heater_installation|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Cabin_Heater]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> <br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Cowling Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Cowl_inlet_thumb.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Cowl Inlet Door]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Screwless_cowl.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Screwless Cowl]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Cowling5.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Custom Cowling]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Jp_plenum_6.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Air Filter Installation]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:vent1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Ground Hot Air Vent]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> === Door Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:splitdoor1.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Air Stair/Split Door]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N173EX_017.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Really Big Hatch]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:IMG_8975.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Hendricks door latch]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N87br_brim.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Brim_N87BR|Forward Hinged Doors]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Door_latch.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Door Latch Safety]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Door_pins_smooth.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Smoother Door Latch]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:doors_open.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Door Gas Springs]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[]</big><br/><br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big>[]</big><br/><br/><big></big><br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Strake or Fuel Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:VP03EPq.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fuel Sump Sensor]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:XLRG_strake.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fuel Strakes|Fuel Strakes]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Image003.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Extended_Strake_Elbow]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Prop and Spinner Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Hub.gif|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[MT_Prop_Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Spinner15.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Spinner#Ferrell_Hersey_Kiss_Spinner]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Engine and Exhaust Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Jp_plenum_6.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Engine#Prudhomme_Air_Cleaner]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Augment_10.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Engine#Ferrell Exhaust Augmentors]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Fuselage Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:hid_lamp.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[HID Landing Light]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Mcmaster_studs.png|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mounting Studs great for spar]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Control Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Bushings_Installed.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Controls#Control_Stick_Enhancement|Center Stick Reinforcement]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N74gp_sticks.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Side_Sticks]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Yokes.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Yokes]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> === Misc Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Draggage.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Draggage Pod]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Free_track.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aircraft Tracking]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:FLIR.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Jackson_N2XF|FLIR Forward Looking Infrared]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:condition_inspection.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Condition Inspection]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Trim or Control Modifications ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:MS20271-BS.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Improvements]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:elevator_bearing_upgrade.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Center Bearing|Elevator Bearing]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:TEFence2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Trailing Edge Fences]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N77ly_sidestick.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Side Sticks]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Vg.jpg|225px]]</big> <br/><br/> <big>[[VG Installation]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N2059u3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Yokes]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N2059u3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Throttle Quadrants]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Strong_sm_2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Strong Pitch Trim]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:trimbraking.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Trim Braking Circuit]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Tfxtreme4.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Cable Replacement]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:aft_aileron.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/> <br /> <big>[[Preventing Roll Trim Cord Slippage]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Aileron_balance2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Balancing]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Trim_spring1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Improved Pitch Trim]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Elevator1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Balancing]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Strainer1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Adjustable Sparrow Strainer]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Shimmy Damping Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:nylon_nut.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nylon Belleville Anti-Shimmy]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Noselock3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mishler Nose Lock]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Rene Shimmy Small.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Millin Factory Shimmy Damper]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Shimmy1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose Wheel Shimmy Damper]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Brake Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[File:823414.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[SE_Datsun_Brakes|SE "Old Style" Brake Parts]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[File:Various_pad_states.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Brake Relining/Pads]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Landing Gear Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:lg_SLM8IY76615BBVZ_CoP.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Landing Gear Cylinder Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Bumper.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fixed Gear Replacement Bumper]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:misler_mech_doors.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mishler nose gear]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:113-1309_IMG.JPG|225px|]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Landing_Gear#Main_Gear_Booties|Main Gear Booties]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wilhelmson_006.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Retractable Nosewheel]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:MG Fairing 06a.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fixed Gear Fairing Modification]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Seals.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Retract Pump and Cylinder Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Rene_Heatshield.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Gear Leg Heatshield]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Franklin Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Franklin_oil_system.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Franklin Oil Bypass]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Franklin_Split_Plenum.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Other Franklin Information]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Painting ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing_paint1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Paint#Wing Painting Jigs - Ferrell]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Building Space or Shop or Moving Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing Supports 3.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[1 Man Wing Support]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Strakeout.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Move_Velocity|Move fuselage with Spar installed]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing-Rack.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Wing & Canard Rack]]</big><br /> |</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big><br/><big>[[File:HT52008-2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Wing Jacks]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> == General Tips ==<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="5"<br /> |[[General]]<br /> |[[Controls]]<br /> |[[Paint]]<br /> |[[Fuselage]]<br /> |[[NACA Ducts]]<br /> |[[Emergency Procedures]]<br /> |-<br /> |[[Wings]]<br /> |[[Engine]]<br /> |[[Avionics]]<br /> |[[Interiors]]<br /> |[[Test Flying]]<br /> |[[Tow/Tug]]<br /> |-<br /> |[[Prop]]<br /> |[[Spinner]]<br /> |[[Finishing]]<br /> |[[Landing Gear]]<br /> |[[Electrical Power]]<br /> |[[Nose_Wheel_Shimmy_Damper]]<br /> |}<br /> == Engine Installations ==<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="5"<br /> |[[V8 Engine]]<br /> |[[V6 Engine]]<br /> |[[Subaru Engine]]<br /> |[[Mazda Engine]]<br /> |[[TIO-540]]<br /> |[[Franklin Engine]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Oil Cooler Turning Vanes ==<br /> Not great pictures but I managed to stick my phone into the nose of the<br /> airplane to get pic of each side of the oil duct.<br /> <br /> What I did was remove the duct, do a micro fill & sand job on the inside<br /> to smooth it up. Mine was really rough and had numerous bumps and edges<br /> inside..<br /> <br /> Then carve curved matching slots in the two sides of the oil duct. Just<br /> thick enough to slide thin aluminum through.<br /> <br /> Then cut out aluminum vanes. Each aluminum piece slides through both<br /> sides of the duct slots creating turning vanes. Slots are about 1 inch<br /> apart. I left tabs on the ends of the vanes that were then folded<br /> against the sides of the oil duct. Then a few layers of bid over the<br /> tabs and sides of the duct to seal the slots to the vanes and restore<br /> the oil ducts strength.<br /> <br /> The shiny squares you see in the pic are the aluminum tabs<br /> <br /> Scott<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Tv_1.jpg|Here's the side towards the gear<br /> Image:Tv_2.jpg|Heres the side away form the gear<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> == Toe Brakes ==<br /> We've retrofitted our XL to use the toe-brake option from the factory. We will eventually add the cast aluminum pedals, but currently have the two separate pedals on both sides. The pilot side master cylinders go to the brakes on the lower end, and the tops go to teh copilot lower master cylinder connections, and the copilot upper connections run to the new resevoir. Note also that the new system requires [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil-Spec 5606 fluid] (like the retracts use in the hydraulics).<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityaircraft.com/manuals/06A_XLR.pdf Installation Instructions]<br/><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Toe_brakes.jpg|Toe Brake Options<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals.jpg|Toe Brake Pedals on N44VF<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals2.jpg|Adjustable rudder arm<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals3.jpg|Co-pilot pedals<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals4.jpg|Reservoir<br /> Image:Figure_1.jpg|Figure 1 - Mechanical Connections<br /> Image:Figure_2.jpg|Figure 2 - Rudder Adjustment<br /> Image:Figure_3.jpg|Figure 3 - Plumbing Diagram<br /> Image:Pedals.jpg|Toe Brakes with Pedals from Don Johnston<br /> </gallery><br /> ------<br /> [[Construction]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == New Articles ==<br /> Placeholder<br /> [[file:Fixing Prop Nicks and Dings.docx]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15701 Controls 2018-12-18T16:24:07Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Control Stick Enhancement ==<br /> <br /> === The Problem ===<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Agnew Solution ===<br /> <br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Brainard Solution ===<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard took a slightly different approach. He saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube he fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Millin/Dugas ASSES (AntiSlop Stick Extra Support) ===<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> To install the block, first remove the AN4 Through Bolt. This will free the stick from the aileron torque tube. It is possible to complete the install without disconnecting the grip, wiring and the elevator. It will probably be easier if the stick is completely removed as it needs to be modified.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. See picture at the top of this page. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be '''completely''' removed to install the block. Leave the flat piece of steel welded to the side of the stick. The flat steel will work against the aluminum block -- flat against flat.<br /> <br /> The area inside the keel is a bit tight for working space. The block goes on the stick side of the torque tube. The two half collars go on the opposite side. It all gets screwed together with the 4 socket head screws.<br /> <br /> A couple long (2" or so) AN4 bolts can be helpful. Put the bolts through the top holes of the block and start them into the two collars.<br /> <br /> Place the block and collars over the torque tube. Slide the Through Bolt through the block and torque tube to maintain alignment.<br /> <br /> I installed the socket head screws with a drop of blue Loctite. The long bolts will hold the clamps in place and allow you to start the lower screws. Once the lowers are started, remove the long bolts and install the upper screws.<br /> <br /> Note: the block is meant to clamp onto the aileron torque tube. There is supposed to be a gap between the block and the half round collars. Do not attempt to draw them into contact.<br /> <br /> Evenly tighten the clamp screws between 50-70 in-lbs.<br /> <br /> :''Lubrication is up to you, the owner.''<br /> <br /> :''Section 6.4.5 - Control Stick Assembly of the Construction Manual does not call for lubricant on the Through Bolt.''<br /> <br /> :''In the original configuration the steel saddle works against the bronze bushing. I believe this is an Oilite bushing and is self lubricating. With the block in place the stick will be working against the aluminum. The aluminum is softer than the steel and could gall over time.''<br /> <br /> :''I used a small amount of anti-seize on the Through Bolt and on the stick to block interface.''<br /> <br /> If you need to, re-connect the elevator to the stick.<br /> <br /> Re-install the stick. Adjust the Through Bolt torque to allow easy elevator control with minimal slop.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> == Side Sticks ==<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> == Yokes ==<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15700 Controls 2018-12-18T16:00:18Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Control Stick Enhancement ==<br /> <br /> === The Problem ===<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Agnew Solution ===<br /> <br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Brainard Solution ===<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard took a slightly different approach. He saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube he fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Dugas/Millin ASSES (AntiSlop Stick Extra Support) ===<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> To install the block, first remove the AN4 Through Bolt. This will free the stick from the aileron torque tube. It is possible to complete the install without disconnecting the grip, wiring and the elevator. It will probably be easier if the stick is completely removed as it needs to be modified.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. See picture at the top of this page. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be '''completely''' removed to install the block. Leave the flat piece of steel welded to the side of the stick. The flat steel will work against the aluminum block -- flat against flat.<br /> <br /> The area inside the keel is a bit tight for working space. The block goes on the stick side of the torque tube. The two half collars go on the opposite side. It all gets screwed together with the 4 socket head screws.<br /> <br /> A couple long (2" or so) AN4 bolts can be helpful. Put the bolts through the top holes of the block and start them into the two collars.<br /> <br /> Place the block and collars over the torque tube. Slide the Through Bolt through the block and torque tube to maintain alignment.<br /> <br /> I installed the socket head screws with a drop of blue Loctite. The long bolts will hold the clamps in place and allow you to start the lower screws. Once the lowers are started, remove the long bolts and install the upper screws.<br /> <br /> Note: the block is meant to clamp onto the aileron torque tube. There is supposed to be a gap between the block and the half round collars. Do not attempt to draw them into contact.<br /> <br /> Evenly tighten the clamp screws between 50-70 in-lbs.<br /> <br /> :''Lubrication is up to you, the owner.''<br /> <br /> :''Section 6.4.5 - Control Stick Assembly of the Construction Manual does not call for lubricant on the Through Bolt.''<br /> <br /> :''In the original configuration the steel saddle works against the bronze bushing. I believe this is an Oilite bushing and is self lubricating. With the block in place the stick will be working against the aluminum. The aluminum is softer than the steel and could gall over time.''<br /> <br /> :''I used a small amount of anti-seize on the Through Bolt and on the stick to block interface.''<br /> <br /> If you need to, re-connect the elevator to the stick.<br /> <br /> Re-install the stick. Adjust the Through Bolt torque to allow easy elevator control with minimal slop.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> == Side Sticks ==<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> == Yokes ==<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15699 Controls 2018-12-18T15:48:28Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> To install the block, first remove the AN4 Through Bolt. This will free the stick from the aileron torque tube. It is possible to complete the install without disconnecting the grip, wiring and the elevator. It will probably be easier if the stick is completely removed as it needs to be modified.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. See picture at the top of this page. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be '''completely''' removed to install the block. Leave the flat piece of steel welded to the side of the stick. The flat steel will work against the aluminum block -- flat against flat.<br /> <br /> The area inside the keel is a bit tight for working space. The block goes on the stick side of the torque tube. The two half collars go on the opposite side. It all gets screwed together with the 4 socket head screws.<br /> <br /> A couple long (2" or so) AN4 bolts can be helpful. Put the bolts through the top holes of the block and start them into the two collars.<br /> <br /> Place the block and collars over the torque tube. Slide the Through Bolt through the block and torque tube to maintain alignment.<br /> <br /> I installed the socket head screws with a drop of blue Loctite. The long bolts will hold the clamps in place and allow you to start the lower screws. Once the lowers are started, remove the long bolts and install the upper screws.<br /> <br /> Note: the block is meant to clamp onto the aileron torque tube. There is supposed to be a gap between the block and the half round collars. Do not attempt to draw them into contact.<br /> <br /> Evenly tighten the clamp screws between 50-70 in-lbs.<br /> <br /> :''Lubrication is up to you, the owner.''<br /> <br /> :''Section 6.4.5 - Control Stick Assembly of the Construction Manual does not call for lubricant on the Through Bolt.''<br /> <br /> :''In the original configuration the steel saddle works against the bronze bushing. I believe this is an Oilite bushing and is self lubricating. With the block in place the stick will be working against the aluminum. The aluminum is softer than the steel and could gall over time.''<br /> <br /> :''I used a small amount of anti-seize on the Through Bolt and on the stick to block interface.''<br /> <br /> If you need to, re-connect the elevator to the stick.<br /> <br /> Re-install the stick. Adjust the Through Bolt torque to allow easy elevator control with minimal slop.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15698 Controls 2018-12-18T15:44:55Z

<p>AndyMillin: Updated information on installing the ASSES</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> To install the block, first remove the 1/4" through bolt. This will free the stick from the aileron torque tube. It is possible to complete the install without disconnecting the grip, wiring and the elevator. It will probably be easier if the stick is removed as it needs to be modified.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. See picture at the top of this page. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be '''completely''' removed to install the block. Leave the flat piece of steel welded to the side of the stick. The flat steel will work against the aluminum block -- flat against flat.<br /> <br /> The area inside the keel is a bit tight for working space. The block goes on the stick side of the torque tube. The two half collars go on the opposite side. It all gets screwed together with the 4 socket head screws.<br /> <br /> A couple long (2" or so) AN4 bolts can be helpful. Put the bolts through the top holes of the block and start them into the two collars.<br /> <br /> Place the block and collars over the torque tube. Slide the Through Bolt through the block and torque tube to maintain alignment.<br /> <br /> I installed the socket head screws with a drop of blue Loctite. The long bolts will hold the clamps in place and allow you to start the lower screws. Once the lowers are started, remove the long bolts and install the upper screws.<br /> <br /> Note: the block is meant to clamp onto the aileron torque tube. There is supposed to be a gap between the block and the half round collars. Do not attempt to draw them into contact.<br /> <br /> Evenly tighten the clamp screws between 50-70 in-lbs.<br /> <br /> :''Lubrication is up to you, the owner.''<br /> <br /> :''Section 6.4.5 - Control Stick Assembly of the Construction Manual does not call for lubricant on the Through Bolt.''<br /> <br /> :''In the original configuration the steel saddle works against the bronze bushing. I believe this is an Oilite bushing and is self lubricating. With the block in place the stick will be working against the aluminum. The aluminum is softer than the steel and could gall over time.''<br /> <br /> :''I used a small amount of anti-seize on the Through Bolt and on the stick to block interface.''<br /> <br /> If you need to, re-connect the elevator to the stick.<br /> <br /> Re-install the stick. Adjust the Through Bolt torque to allow easy elevator control with minimal slop.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Builder_Tips,_Tricks,_and_Modifications&diff=15647 Builder Tips, Tricks, and Modifications 2018-07-16T14:06:37Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This page will contain your Builder Tips and Tricks. Please share your thoughts on how best to organize this information. I think by aircraft system is probably best, rather than by submitting user, but I'm flexible. Here are some beginning categories.<br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''CLICK THE TEXT''', not the picture, to get to the article!!!'<br/><br /> <br /> == Specific Tips ==<br /> Find data on Velocity [[Props]]<br/><br /> Velocity [[Glossary]]<br/><br /> [http://velocityowners.com/content.aspx?page_id=2 Current Events]<br/><br /> <br /> === NACA or Nose Cooler or Heat Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:keelseal.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Keel Seal]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:cooler blower 001 a.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose Heat Control]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:1naca.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[NACA Inlets]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Velocity_Building_020_143.jpeg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose_Oil_Cooling]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:NACA_FlowTest_0150.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[NACA_Ducts]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:NACA-LR.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Updraft to Downdraft Conversion]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Heater_installation|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Cabin_Heater]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> <br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Cowling Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Cowl_inlet_thumb.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Cowl Inlet Door]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Screwless_cowl.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Screwless Cowl]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Cowling5.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Custom Cowling]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Jp_plenum_6.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Air Filter Installation]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:vent1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Ground Hot Air Vent]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> === Door Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:splitdoor1.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Air Stair/Split Door]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N173EX_017.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Really Big Hatch]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:IMG_8975.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Hendricks door latch]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N87br_brim.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Brim_N87BR|Forward Hinged Doors]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Door_latch.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Door Latch Safety]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Door_pins_smooth.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Smoother Door Latch]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:doors_open.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Door Gas Springs]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[]</big><br/><br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big>[]</big><br/><br/><big></big><br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Strake or Fuel Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:VP03EPq.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fuel Sump Sensor]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:XLRG_strake.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fuel Strakes|Fuel Strakes]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Image003.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Extended_Strake_Elbow]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Prop and Spinner Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Hub.gif|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[MT_Prop_Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Spinner15.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Spinner#Ferrell_Hersey_Kiss_Spinner]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Engine and Exhaust Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Jp_plenum_6.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Engine#Prudhomme_Air_Cleaner]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Augment_10.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Engine#Ferrell Exhaust Augmentors]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Fuselage Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:hid_lamp.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[HID Landing Light]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Mcmaster_studs.png|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mounting Studs great for spar]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Control Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Bushings_Installed.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Controls#Control_Stick_Enhancement|Center Stick Reinforcement]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N74gp_sticks.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Side_Sticks]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Yokes.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Yokes]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> === Misc Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Draggage.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Draggage Pod]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Free_track.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aircraft Tracking]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:FLIR.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Jackson_N2XF|FLIR Forward Looking Infrared]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:condition_inspection.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Condition Inspection]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Trim or Control Modifications ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:MS20271-BS.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Improvements]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:elevator_bearing_upgrade.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Center Bearing|Elevator Bearing]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:TEFence2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Trailing Edge Fences]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N77ly_sidestick.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Side Sticks]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Vg.jpg|225px]]</big> <br/><br/> <big>[[VG Installation]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N2059u3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Yokes]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:N2059u3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Throttle Quadrants]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Strong_sm_2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Strong Pitch Trim]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:trimbraking.jpg|125px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Trim Braking Circuit]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Tfxtreme4.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Cable Replacement]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:aft_aileron.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/> <br /> <big>[[Preventing Roll Trim Cord Slippage]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Aileron_balance2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Aileron Balancing]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Trim_spring1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Improved Pitch Trim]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Elevator1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Elevator Balancing]]</big><br /> |<br><big>[[Image:Strainer1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Adjustable Sparrow Strainer]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Shimmy Damping Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:nylon_nut.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nylon Belleville Anti-Shimmy]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Noselock3.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mishler Nose Lock]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Rene Shimmy Small.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Millin Factory Shimmy Damper]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Shimmy1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Nose Wheel Shimmy Dampener]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Brake Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[File:823414.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[SE_Datsun_Brakes|SE "Old Style" Brake Parts]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[File:Various_pad_states.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Brake Relining/Pads]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Landing Gear Mods ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:lg_SLM8IY76615BBVZ_CoP.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Landing Gear Cylinder Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Bumper.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fixed Gear Replacement Bumper]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:misler_mech_doors.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Mishler nose gear]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:113-1309_IMG.JPG|225px|]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Landing_Gear#Main_Gear_Booties|Main Gear Booties]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wilhelmson_006.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Retractable Nosewheel]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:MG Fairing 06a.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Fixed Gear Fairing Modification]]</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Seals.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Retract Pump and Cylinder Rebuild]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Rene_Heatshield.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Gear Leg Heatshield]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Franklin Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Franklin_oil_system.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Franklin Oil Bypass]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Franklin_Split_Plenum.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Other Franklin Information]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Painting ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing_paint1.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Paint#Wing Painting Jigs - Ferrell]]</big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> === Building Space or Shop or Moving Tips ===<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="30" align="center" style="text-align:center;"<br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing Supports 3.JPG|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[1 Man Wing Support]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Strakeout.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Move_Velocity|Move fuselage with Spar installed]]</big><br /> |<br/><big>[[Image:Wing-Rack.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Wing & Canard Rack]]</big><br /> |</big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |-<br /> |<br/><big><br/><big>[[File:HT52008-2.jpg|225px]]</big><br/><br/><big>[[Wing Jacks]]</big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |<br><big></big><br /> |-<br /> !scope="row" colspan="3"|<hr><br /> |}<br /> <br /> == General Tips ==<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="5"<br /> |[[General]]<br /> |[[Controls]]<br /> |[[Paint]]<br /> |[[Fuselage]]<br /> |[[NACA Ducts]]<br /> |[[Emergency Procedures]]<br /> |-<br /> |[[Wings]]<br /> |[[Engine]]<br /> |[[Avionics]]<br /> |[[Interiors]]<br /> |[[Test Flying]]<br /> |[[Tow/Tug]]<br /> |-<br /> |[[Prop]]<br /> |[[Spinner]]<br /> |[[Finishing]]<br /> |[[Landing Gear]]<br /> |[[Electrical Power]]<br /> |[[Nose_Wheel_Shimmy_Dampener]]<br /> |}<br /> == Engine Installations ==<br /> {| cellpadding="10" cellspacing="5"<br /> |[[V8 Engine]]<br /> |[[V6 Engine]]<br /> |[[Subaru Engine]]<br /> |[[Mazda Engine]]<br /> |[[TIO-540]]<br /> |[[Franklin Engine]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Oil Cooler Turning Vanes ==<br /> Not great pictures but I managed to stick my phone into the nose of the<br /> airplane to get pic of each side of the oil duct.<br /> <br /> What I did was remove the duct, do a micro fill & sand job on the inside<br /> to smooth it up. Mine was really rough and had numerous bumps and edges<br /> inside..<br /> <br /> Then carve curved matching slots in the two sides of the oil duct. Just<br /> thick enough to slide thin aluminum through.<br /> <br /> Then cut out aluminum vanes. Each aluminum piece slides through both<br /> sides of the duct slots creating turning vanes. Slots are about 1 inch<br /> apart. I left tabs on the ends of the vanes that were then folded<br /> against the sides of the oil duct. Then a few layers of bid over the<br /> tabs and sides of the duct to seal the slots to the vanes and restore<br /> the oil ducts strength.<br /> <br /> The shiny squares you see in the pic are the aluminum tabs<br /> <br /> Scott<br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Tv_1.jpg|Here's the side towards the gear<br /> Image:Tv_2.jpg|Heres the side away form the gear<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> == Toe Brakes ==<br /> We've retrofitted our XL to use the toe-brake option from the factory. We will eventually add the cast aluminum pedals, but currently have the two separate pedals on both sides. The pilot side master cylinders go to the brakes on the lower end, and the tops go to teh copilot lower master cylinder connections, and the copilot upper connections run to the new resevoir. Note also that the new system requires [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil-Spec 5606 fluid] (like the retracts use in the hydraulics).<br/><br /> [http://www.velocityaircraft.com/manuals/06A_XLR.pdf Installation Instructions]<br/><br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Toe_brakes.jpg|Toe Brake Options<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals.jpg|Toe Brake Pedals on N44VF<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals2.jpg|Adjustable rudder arm<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals3.jpg|Co-pilot pedals<br /> Image:Toebrake_pedals4.jpg|Reservoir<br /> Image:Figure_1.jpg|Figure 1 - Mechanical Connections<br /> Image:Figure_2.jpg|Figure 2 - Rudder Adjustment<br /> Image:Figure_3.jpg|Figure 3 - Plumbing Diagram<br /> Image:Pedals.jpg|Toe Brakes with Pedals from Don Johnston<br /> </gallery><br /> ------<br /> [[Construction]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == New Articles ==<br /> Placeholder<br /> [[file:Fixing Prop Nicks and Dings.docx]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15646 Controls 2018-07-11T15:19:16Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* = */</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick-to-block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15645 Controls 2018-07-10T15:47:37Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* = */</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> ------------------------------<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg|Completely remove top and outside of saddle.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15644 Controls 2018-07-10T15:45:32Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* = */</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.JPG<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15643 Controls 2018-07-10T15:45:13Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* = */</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.JPG<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.jpg<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.jpg<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15642 Controls 2018-07-10T15:43:59Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque Tube Block 1.jpg<br /> Torque Tube Block_2.jpg<br /> Torque Tube Block_3.jpg<br /> Torque Tube Block_4.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15641 Controls 2018-07-10T15:43:19Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque_Tube_Block_1.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_2.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_3.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_4.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=Controls&diff=15640 Controls 2018-07-10T15:40:13Z

<p>AndyMillin: /* = */</p> <hr /> <div>This section is for builder's Tips and Tricks for Controls, as well as one-off modifications.<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> The aileron torque tube in the keel is 3/4" O.D. aluminum. The factory has produced a couple designs for attaching the control stick to this tube. The original design simply used a bolt connecting the control stick to the torque tube. The later design uses an arm welded to the control stick to capture both sides of the torque tube. With the arm the factory also installed a brass insert bushing in the torque tube.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center Stick with Saddle.JPG|thumb|right|400px|Center stick with welded arm]]<br /> <br /> The arm and bushing helped, but the original problem was not solved. The torque tube is aluminum. The control stick has significant mechanical advantage and over time the aluminum will yield and waller. The result is slop in the aileron controls.<br /> <br /> Here are some of the modifications owners have made to address the control slop.<br /> <br /> === Control Stick Enhancement ===<br /> This tip for improving the way the standard center control stick mounting/support again comes from Jim Agnew. Jim_agnew_2 at yahoo dot com<br /> <blockquote><br /> While flying with Sam I commented on the stick play (side to side) and he said that it was caused by the limited support in the lateral direction caused by the two round pieces of tubing having almost no bearing surface. He mentioned the new velocity saddle type mount and said that he had made some microglass bearings to provide more support. This intrigued me so back at the hanger I grabbed a 1 1/4” piece of 6061-T6 aluminum rod and chucked it up in the lathe. I trued the surface and the exposed end and lathe drilled a ¼” axial hole in the rod. Next I used the mill to precision mill a ¾” hole at right angles to the axial hole and centered on the rod.<br/><br/><br /> You now have a rod with a ¾” hole thru it and a 90 degree intersecting hole down the center of the rod. Placing the rod back in the lathe I lathe drilled the ¼” axial hole to 3/8” on one side of the ¾” intersecting hole. The bushing in the aluminum torque tube is this size so one side must be 3/8” & the other ¼”. Next I faced the end of the rod until the metal at the axial hole was only .040 thick measuring out from the ¾” hole. At this point I cut the rod on the inboard side of the ¾” hole and reversed the piece in the lathe. Face the new end to the same .040 thickness and then you cut the rod in half thru the center of the ¾” hole. You now have two round aluminum washers with a ¾” half round grove and a hole (one ¼” & one 3/8”) perpendicular to the grove and centered in it.<br/><br/><br /> Next I polished the flat sides on 400 grit emery paper to a very smooth finish. I then made a round bearing washer to fit the flat sides out of .002 brass shim stock and with a ¼” center hole. Almost done, I removed the through bolt from the stick and placed the 3/8” drilled washer on the bolt with the ¾” with grove against the torque tube If made correctly this “saddle” will be a very tight fit and actually stick to the torque tube. Next coat the brass washer on both sides with NeverSez (the same stuff you use on spark plug threads) and place over the bolt. Next comes the ¼” drilled washer with the groove facing the stick. Install the stick on the bolt and tighten firmly to seat the saddles. Then back off the tension slowly testing the elevator action to make sure you don’t have too much friction. When you are happy with the action install the stick locknut and lock the bolt. You will find that the elevator action is butter smooth and there is no aileron side play other than the bending of the torque tube that is slight. You will find that aileron reaction is much faster. There is far less strain on the torque tube and pivot bolt and the expected life of the piece is probably well beyond the aircraft by a factor of ten.<br /> </blockquote><br /> <gallery><br /> Image:Bushings Bottom.jpg|Bottom of bushings showing the working face and brass washer. They don't look it in the picture but they are posished to a 400 finish. They are aluminum and the gold color is false and due to the lighting.<br /> Image:Bushings Installed.jpg|Bushings Installed<br /> Image:Bushings Side view.jpg|Side View<br /> Image:Bushings in working position.jpg|Working Position<br /> Image:Bushings top.JPG|Bushings from top with brass washer bearing<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> ===================================<br /> <br /> Jerry Brainard and Renè Dugas took a slightly different approach. They saw the problem as a matter of attaching to the torque tube. Instead of depending on the brass bushing inside the tube they fabricated a clamp. The clamp positively grabs the torque tube and provides a larger, flat surface for the control stick to ride against.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 1.jpg|Brainard supports<br /> Brainard Control Stick Support 2.jpg|Brainard solution installed. Notice the pieces are bolted and clamped against the torque tube and control stick.<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> The following .pdf is a hand drawing of the Dugas solution.<br /> <br /> [[File:Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf|thumbnail|Control stick support Velo - Aug 4 2017 - 2-20 PM.pdf]]<br /> <br /> Andy Millin created a support block based upon the Dugas solution. The block captures the bushing and clamps to the torque tube. It is made from 2024 aluminum. The supports are re-purposed 3/4" aluminum double split shaft collars.<br /> <br /> The stick comes with a U shaped saddle. The top and outer leg of the saddle must be removed to install the block. This leaves a flat piece of steel to work against the new aluminum block. The screws are installed with locktite. The cross bolt and stick to block surfaces received a small amount of anti-seize.<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> Torque_Tube_Support_1.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Support_2.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Support_3.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Support_4.jpg<br /> Torque_Tube_Support_5.jpg<br /> </gallery><br /> <br /> === Side Sticks ===<br /> [[Image:N77ly sidestick.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N77LY Side Sticks]]Go to the Side Sticks page to see aircraft modified to use side stick controls rather than the standard center stick.<br /> [[Side Sticks]]<br /> <br/><br/><br/><br/><br/><br /> <br /> <br /> === Yokes ===<br /> [[Image:N2059u3.jpg|thumb|right|150px|N2059U Flight Yokes]]Go to the Yokes page to see SUV and other aircraft fitted with flight yokes.<br /> [[Yokes]]</div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Torque_Tube_Block_5.jpg&diff=15639 File:Torque Tube Block 5.jpg 2018-07-10T15:31:47Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin https://wiki.velocityoba.com/index.php?title=File:Torque_Tube_Block_4.JPG&diff=15638 File:Torque Tube Block 4.JPG 2018-07-10T15:24:12Z

<p>AndyMillin: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

AndyMillin