HID Landing Light - Revision history

Admin: 11 revisions

2010-08-20T18:09:19Z

11 revisions

Emteeoh: Trying to edit to read more like a HOWTO than a personal email from Andy.

2008-07-20T16:53:44Z

Trying to edit to read more like a HOWTO than a personal email from Andy.

AndyMillin at 18:13, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:13:14Z

AndyMillin at 18:11, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:11:57Z

AndyMillin at 18:11, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:11:15Z

AndyMillin at 18:10, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:10:29Z

AndyMillin at 18:08, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:08:35Z

AndyMillin at 18:07, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:07:34Z

AndyMillin at 18:06, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T18:06:57Z

AndyMillin at 17:57, 15 July 2008

2008-07-15T17:57:44Z

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 HID has two advantages:
-It produces a great deal more light  (around 10x the photons)
+* It produces a great deal more light  (around 10x the photons)
-It draws a great deal less electricity.  (approx 3 amps)
+* It draws a great deal less electricity.  (approx 3 amps)
 The downsides are:
+* It takes about 5 seconds from the time the switch is thrown until it reaches full brightness (a non-issue in some's estimation for some purposes)
-It takes about 5 seconds from the time the switch is thrown until it reaches full brightness (a non-issue in my estimation for my purpose)
+* You have the extra weight of the ballast.  Extra weight is never a good thing on an aircraft.  The ballast weighs 4-5 ounces.
-You have the extra weight of the ballast.  Extra weight is never a good thing on an aircraft.  The ballast might weigh 4-5 ounces, and I’m willing to accept it.
+* HID requires high voltage (15K-20K volts) to ignite.  During ignition (5-10) seconds, the high voltage can create radio noise
 Other considerations:
-* one I really want an installation that does not require modification of the current landing light.  I want it to “drop in”
+* Builders really want an installation that does not require modification of the current landing light.  It should just “drop in”
-* two Current Aviation HID systems that would “drop in” run in the $300-$500 range.  For me, the benefits just aren’t worth $500.  I want a photon cannon, but not that badly.
+* Current Aviation HID systems that would “drop in” run in the $300-$500 range. This page describes a project to deliver the same quality for significantly less.
 Automotive HID systems are very durable and should perform well in our aircraft.  Life expectancy on the bulbs is around 3000 hours (lifetime of the aircraft).  They handle shock and vibration well.
-Our factory incandescent is a 100W  PAR-36.  Parabolic Aluminized Reflector, 36 eights of an inch in diameter.  :)
+The factory incandescent is a 100W  PAR-36.  Parabolic Aluminized Reflector, 36 eights of an inch in diameter.
 It is a focused beam with a dispersion somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 degrees horizontal and 10 degrees vertical. Essentially it is a spot light, not a flood light.
 HID Bulbs/Systems come in a lot of flavors.  A quick search of the net will turn up cheap halogen to HID conversion kits.  You can get two bulbs, two ballasts, and two wiring harnesses for around $110.  You will see them listed as: H1/H3/H4/H7/H11/H13/9005/9006/9007  These are bulb types.  For the most part, a ballast will drive any one of the types.
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 [[Image:HID_1.jpg]]
-There are two flavors of conversion kits.  Cheap flavor mentioned above and expensive flavor (no middle).  The expensive conversion kits do run in the $300-$500 range.  I was ready to pull the trigger on a cheap kit, but couldn’t bring myself to do it.  I didn’t know why there were two prices ranges.  There had to be a difference, and the difference could make all the difference.  :p
+There are two flavors of conversion kits.  Cheap flavor mentioned above and expensive flavor (no middle).  The expensive conversion kits run in the $300-$500 range.
-The cheap systems above (H1/H3/H4/H7/H11/H13/9005/9006/9007)  Can be produced cheaply because they build the igniter into the ballast.  Lower parts count and all that.  Downside: it makes them EMI noisy.
+The cheap systems above (H1/H3/H4/H7/H11/H13/9005/9006/9007)  can be produced cheaply because they build the igniter into the ballast.  Lower parts count and all that.  The downside is that it makes them EMI noisy.
 The expensive systems used bulbs D1S/D1R/D2S/D2R/D3S/D3R/D4S/D4R.  These “D” system have moved the igniter to a small module that joins directly with the bulb.  It looks like this:
@@ Line 49: / Line 43: @@
         I’m not sure, but the metal band on the “R” might be a clip that can just be pulled off???
-D series don’t have the high voltage line from the ballast to the bulb.  From what I have read, it is noise free …  and … expensive …
+D series don’t have the high voltage line from the ballast to the bulb.  This makes them is noise free and expensive.
 If you look up  XeVision at http://www.xevision.com/  Look for the landing light conversion kit.  They use a D1S bulb and they want $499 for the 35W version.  For one light.
-You might also see “digital ballast” advertised.  By using a computer to control the ballast, it is possible to bring the light online a little faster and shut it down in such a way as to extend the bulb life a bit.  For my purposes it wasn’t anything to go out of my way for.  The light will come online in plenty of time no matter what, and the bulb is probably going to last longer than I need it anyway.
+You might also see “digital ballast” advertised.  By using a computer to control the ballast, it is possible to bring the light online a little faster and shut it down in such a way as to extend the bulb life a bit.  For this project, the ignite time is not an issue, and the bulb lifetime is already comparable to the airframe lifetime, so it would seem that digital balast is not a necessary expense.
-Once the research on HID was done, I knew what the difference was and I knew what I wanted.  It was also pretty easy to find.  If you look on the eBay, you will find complete systems with two of everything (removed from automotive) for under $200.  A pretty good deal.  You can probably find someone to split the set with you.
+If you look on the eBay, you will find complete systems with two of everything (removed from automotive) for under $200. You can probably find another builder to split the set with you.
 These systems can be found on the Internet and in salvage yards.  If the bulb type is not known, look to see if the igniter is attached to the bulb.  If it is, you should be good-to-go.
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 They sell salvaged headlight units.  Many have a broken tab or a cracked enclosure.  I didn’t need the headlight, I wanted the guts.  He lists the headlight by make, model and year.  It is important that it is listed as “HID/Xenon components included”; they aren’t always.  I found a Corvette headlight, 2001-2005 with the goodies; lower mounting tab was broken.   A little more research and I confirmed the high beam for that model/year was a D1S HID.
-I bought the thing and had it for $39; including shipping.  Everything worked like a champ.  They were quality OSRAM components.  I stole it.
+I bought the thing and had it for $39; including shipping.  Everything worked like a champ.  They were quality OSRAM components
-The part that is not so easy to find is the PAR-36 reflector with the focal dimension we need.  I could not find a spot on XeVision’s site where you could just purchase the PAR-36.  I was not deterred.  I downloaded the Interwebs and searched it.  :)
+The part that is not so easy to find is the PAR-36 reflector with the focal dimension we need.  I could not find a spot on XeVision’s site where you could just purchase the PAR-36.
 http://www.duckworksav.com/upgrades.html
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-Retract guys will need to do some extra work.  I believe the nose gear comes very close to the landing light and it could interfere with the igniter.  Another good reason to get fixed gear .    O_o
+Retract guys will need to do some extra work.  I believe the nose gear comes very close to the landing light and it could interfere with the igniter.  Another good reason to get fixed gear.
-Andy
+With a little looking and some patience, I have an HID photon cannon for around $100. The sucker is VERY bright.  I fired it up and it was like Rudolph.  People were shielding their eyes and telling me to “turn that thing down.”  In the plane, there is so much light that the nose glows; at least until I get some paint on it.

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:13, 15 July 2008
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	I bought the thing and had it for $39; including shipping. Everything worked like a champ. They were quality OSRAM components. I stole it.		I bought the thing and had it for $39; including shipping. Everything worked like a champ. They were quality OSRAM components. I stole it.
−
−	~~He currently has a Toyota Avalon headlight for sale: http://tinyurl.com/59f2zy It contains all the HID goodies (I’m pretty sure this is a D1R). D1R and D1S bulbs are interchangeable.~~
−
−	~~Here is a complete OSRAM system, same as mine, shown working, on the bay http://tinyurl.com/5fsykd~~

	The part that is not so easy to find is the PAR-36 reflector with the focal dimension we need. I could not find a spot on XeVision’s site where you could just purchase the PAR-36. I was not deterred. I downloaded the Interwebs and searched it. :)		The part that is not so easy to find is the PAR-36 reflector with the focal dimension we need. I could not find a spot on XeVision’s site where you could just purchase the PAR-36. I was not deterred. I downloaded the Interwebs and searched it. :)

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 It has a special machined fitting on the back to hold the igniter.  It is a very nice piece.  This is what my installation looks like.
 [[Image:Pic1294.jpg]] [[Image:Pic1295.jpg]]
 Retract guys will need to do some extra work.  I believe the nose gear comes very close to the landing light and it could interfere with the igniter.  Another good reason to get fixed gear .    O_o

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 -4 refers to the gas used (Mercury, Xenon, etc.).  Actually, if you want to talk tech, it is called a “Capsule”
     "S" is Straight, or Standard, R is Reflective or Reflector.
-    “R” type Capsules will have a metal band around the base that blocks light.  It is intended to keep high beams from overlapping the low beam and causing glare.  I’m not sure, but the metal band on the “R” might be a clip that can just be pulled off???
+    “R” type Capsules will have a metal band around the base that blocks light.
 D series don’t have the high voltage line from the ballast to the bulb.  From what I have read, it is noise free …  and … expensive …

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     “D” means Dual Pole.  Look closely at the bulb.  It has two compartments.  It also has the rod coming from the base of the bulb and attaching at the top.
 -4 refers to the gas used (Mercury, Xenon, etc.).  Actually, if you want to talk tech, it is called a “Capsule”
-    S is Straight, or Standard, R is Reflective or Reflector.  “R” type Capsules will have a metal band around the base that blocks light.  It is intended to keep high beams from overlapping the low beam and causing glare.  I’m not sure, but the metal band on the “R” might be a clip that can just be pulled off???
+    "S" is Straight, or Standard, R is Reflective or Reflector.
 D series don’t have the high voltage line from the ballast to the bulb.  From what I have read, it is noise free …  and … expensive …

← Older revision	Revision as of 18:09, 20 August 2010
(No difference)

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 The expensive systems used bulbs D1S/D1R/D2S/D2R/D3S/D3R/D4S/D4R.  These “D” system have moved the igniter to a small module that joins directly with the bulb.  It looks like this:
+[[Image:HID_D1S_D1R.jpg]]
 D1S on left, D1R on right.  Notice the clip on the “R”  (it looks like it could be easily removed)