Screwless Cowl - Revision history

Admin: 54 revisions

2010-08-20T18:13:56Z

54 revisions

Bferrell at 14:21, 16 July 2010

2010-07-16T14:21:05Z

AndyMillin at 15:43, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T15:43:34Z

AndyMillin at 15:38, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T15:38:13Z

AndyMillin at 15:37, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T15:37:31Z

AndyMillin at 15:33, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T15:33:36Z

AndyMillin at 15:28, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T15:28:52Z

AndyMillin at 13:51, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T13:51:08Z

AndyMillin at 13:49, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T13:49:22Z

AndyMillin at 13:48, 5 April 2010

2010-04-05T13:48:46Z

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 * A three bid layup, three inches wide, is laid from the firewall onto the duct tape.
-[[Image:cowl_slot.jpg]]
+[[Image:Cowl_slot.jpg]]
-[[Image:pic1166.jpg]]  [[Image:pic1167.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1166.jpg]]  [[Image:Pic1167.jpg]]
 Cowl slot lay-up on upper cowl.
@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 * Trim the new lay-ups.  This forms the slots that capture the cowl flanges.
-[[Image:pic1179.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1179.jpg]]
 Lower cowl slot is trimmed flush.
-[[Image:pic1180.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1180.jpg]]
 Upper cowl slot is left long.
@@ Line 39: / Line 39: @@
 There is a possible "gotcha!" with the wing hinges.  Don't get the wing hinges too close to the firewall.  The cowl will need to flex outward to de-interlace the hinge for removal.  The forward slot will work against the flexing necessary to remove the cowl.  If the hinge is too close to the slot, you will not be able to remove the cowl.  I kept my hinge 7 inches back.
-[[Image:pic1199.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1199.jpg]]
 I used machined aircraft hinge.  If I did it again, I would use hardware store grade rolled hinge.  The aircraft hinge is expensive and will not loosen over time.  The hinge sections are many times stronger than the original screws so are overkill as a fastemer.
@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 Upon initial installation, the hinges will be tight; and it will make installation and removal a little more difficult.  In this case a "sloppier" fastener woulld work better.  The hardware hinge will "break in" over time, the aircraft version probably won't.
-[[Image:pic1196.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1196.jpg]]
 * The existing flanges on the wings are trimmed to be flat at the top.
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 finsih by removing exess adheisve with scrapers and acetone.
-[[Image:Pic1183.jpg]]  [[Image:pic1182.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1183.jpg]]  [[Image:Pic1182.jpg]]
 * Bond the hinges to the inside of the flange and the inside of the cowl.
@@ Line 65: / Line 65: @@
 * After the hinges are bonded in place, countersink the cleco holes and install 1/8" pop-rivets.
-[[Image:pic1198.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1198.jpg]]
 It happens that the hinge pin on the 1" aircraft hinge happens to be the right diamater to be tapped 4-40.  I made small handles out of aluminum stock.  I drilled and tapped them 4-40.  A small drop of Lock-Tite and the handles were ready for use.
-[[Image:pic1202.jpg]]
+[[Image:Pic1202.jpg]]
 The cowl attached with forward tabs/slots and six hinges.

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:43, 5 April 2010
Line 36:		Line 36:

	* The sides of the cowl are attached with three hinge pieces on each side. Top of wing, bottom of wing and cowl-to-cowl aft of wing.		* The sides of the cowl are attached with three hinge pieces on each side. Top of wing, bottom of wing and cowl-to-cowl aft of wing.
		+
		+	There is a possible "gotcha!" with the wing hinges. Don't get the wing hinges too close to the firewall. The cowl will need to flex outward to de-interlace the hinge for removal. The forward slot will work against the flexing necessary to remove the cowl. If the hinge is too close to the slot, you will not be able to remove the cowl. I kept my hinge 7 inches back.

	[[Image:pic1199.jpg]]		[[Image:pic1199.jpg]]

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 The Velocity plans call for the cowling to be attached via countersunk machine screws captured with nut plates. This installation technique works well and has been used on the majority of flying Velocities.  It works well.
-However, for those that like to add complexity and time to the build, there are a couple advantages to the screwless cowl.:
+However, for those that like to add cost, complexity, and time to the build, there are advantages to the screwless cowl:
 # The cowl can be removed by pulling six pins; very simple and quick

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-The Velocity plans call for the cowling to be attached via countersunk machine screws captured with nut plates. This installation technique works well and has been used on the majority of flying Velocities.
+The Velocity plans call for the cowling to be attached via countersunk machine screws captured with nut plates. This installation technique works well and has been used on the majority of flying Velocities.  It works well.
-There are a number of real advantages and a few features that appeal to our vanity:
+However, for those that like to add complexity and time to the build, there are a couple advantages to the screwless cowl.:
-The cowl can be removed by pulling six pins; very simple and quick.
+# The cowl can be removed by pulling six pins; very simple and quick
-There are no screws to come loose and go through the prop.
+# There are no screws to come loose and go through the prop
-The height challenged owner does not need a step to get to the screws on the top of the cowl.
+# The height challenged owner does not need a step to get to the screws on the top of the cowl
-It is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.
+# It is aesthetically pleasing to the eye
-It adds that “how the heck did he did do that?” factor for the casual observer.
+# It adds that “how the heck did he did do that?” factor for the casual observer
 How it is done:
-The existing cowl pieces have a flange on the forward face.  This is the flange that hold the nut plates for the standard attachment.
+The existing cowl pieces have a flange on the forward face.  This is the flange that holds the nut plates for the standard attachment.
 * The flange is trimmed back to 1/2" to 5/8”.

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 The existing cowl pieces have a flange on the forward face.  This is the flange that hold the nut plates for the standard attachment.
-The flange is trimmed back to 1/2" to 5/8”.
+* The flange is trimmed back to 1/2" to 5/8”.
-# The inside surface of the flange is covered with duct tape.
+* The inside surface of the flange is covered with duct tape.
-# A three bid layup, three inches wide, is laid from the firewall onto the duct tape.
+* A three bid layup, three inches wide, is laid from the firewall onto the duct tape.
 [[Image:cowl_slot.jpg]]
@@ Line 25: / Line 25: @@
 Cowl slot lay-up on upper cowl.
-Trim the new lay-ups.  This forms the slots that capture the cowl flanges.
+* Trim the new lay-ups.  This forms the slots that capture the cowl flanges.
 [[Image:pic1179.jpg]]
@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 Upper cowl slot is left long.
-  The sides of the cowl are attached with three hinge pieces on each side.
+* The sides of the cowl are attached with three hinge pieces on each side. Top of wing, bottom of wing and cowl-to-cowl aft of wing.
 [[Image:pic1199.jpg]]
@@ Line 46: / Line 45: @@
 [[Image:pic1196.jpg]]
-  The existing flanges on the wings are trimmed to be flat at the top.
+* The existing flanges on the wings are trimmed to be flat at the top.
 The lower section of the hinge may need to be sculpted to fit.  The hinge
 pieces are bonded on one side at at time.  E.g. bond one half of the
@@ Line 55: / Line 54: @@
 [[Image:Pic1183.jpg]]  [[Image:pic1182.jpg]]
-Bond the hinges to the inside of the flange and the inside of the cowl.
+* Bond the hinges to the inside of the flange and the inside of the cowl.
 I drilled the cowl and hinges and held them in place with clecos while they
 were bonding.  I used ES-6228 Aeropoxy Structural adhesive for bonding.
@@ Line 61: / Line 61: @@
 [[Image:Pic1577.jpg]]
-  After the hinges are bonded in place, countersink the cleco holes and install 1/8" pop-rivets.
+* After the hinges are bonded in place, countersink the cleco holes and install 1/8" pop-rivets.
 [[Image:pic1198.jpg]]

← Older revision	Revision as of 18:13, 20 August 2010
(No difference)

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 The flange is trimmed back to 1/2" to 5/8”.
-  The inside surface of the flange is covered with duct tape.
+# The inside surface of the flange is covered with duct tape.
-  A three bid layup, three inches wide, is laid from the firewall onto the duct tape.
+# A three bid layup, three inches wide, is laid from the firewall onto the duct tape.
 [[Image:cowl_slot.jpg]]
@@ Line 73: / Line 73: @@
 ----
 I had gotten the idea to do this from Craig Woolston and John Schrool's Velocity
 Pictures from their installation:
+<table border="0">
-[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 057.JPG|thumb]]
+<tr>
-[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 058.JPG|thumb]]
+<td>[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 057.JPG|thumb|none]]</td>
-[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 063.JPG|thumb]]
+<td>[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 058.JPG|thumb|none]]</td>
-[[Image:Bstrake1 018.JPG|thumb]]
+<td>[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 063.JPG|thumb|none]]</td>
-[[Image:100 1175.JPG|thumb]]
+</tr>

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:51, 5 April 2010
Line 79:		Line 79:
	Pictures from their installation:		Pictures from their installation:

−	[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 057.JPG\|thumb]] [[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 058.JPG\|thumb]] [[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 063.JPG\|thumb]] [[Image:Bstrake1 018.JPG\|thumb]] [[Image:100 1175.JPG\|thumb]]	+	[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 057.JPG\|thumb]]
		+	[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 058.JPG\|thumb]]
		+	[[Image:Craig-John's Velocity 063.JPG\|thumb]]
		+	[[Image:Bstrake1 018.JPG\|thumb]]
		+	[[Image:100 1175.JPG\|thumb]]