Difference between revisions of "Nose Wheel Shimmy Dampener"

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<hr/>
 
<hr/>
 
"Nose wheel shimmy.
 
"Nose wheel shimmy.
One of the recurring irritations of an otherwise great airplane is the
+
One of the recurring irritations of an otherwise great airplane is the nosewheel anti-shimmy scheme. Velocity forum readers may recall this subject comes up periodically, stirs up a few people, and then dies with the generally lame advise to keep the Belville washers clean and tightened to some seemingly arbitrary value and stop whining.<br/><br/>
nosewheel anti-shimmy scheme. Velocity forum readers may recall this subject
 
comes up periodically, stirs up a few people, and then dies with the
 
generally lame advise to keep the Belview washers clean and tightened to
 
some seemingly arbitrary value and stop whining.<br/><br/>
 
  
To get into my hanger I must make a sharp 120 degree right followed
+
To get into my hanger I must make a sharp 120 degree right followed immediately by a left 90. Sometimes I make it and sometimes I end up out in the weeds.<br/><br/>
immediately by a left 90. Sometimes I make it and sometimes I end up out in
 
the weeds.<br/><br/>
 
  
 
After the last time, I finally decided I was pissed enough to try and do
 
After the last time, I finally decided I was pissed enough to try and do
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<hr/>
 
<hr/>
  
After two years, no problems... the only thing I would do different next
+
After two years, no problems... the only thing I would do different next time would be to make it look a little better.
time would be to
 
make it look a little better.
 
  
 
<hr/>
 
<hr/>
 
<center>more notes</center>
 
<center>more notes</center>
 
<hr/>
 
<hr/>
One of the local knowledgeable mechanics reminded me that Cessna for years
+
One of the local knowledgeable mechanics reminded me that Cessna for years had a hydraulic shimmy damper on their nosegear.  I examined and took photos of an older 150 and 172 to see how they did it.  The same guy gave me a discarded damper that someone had tried to get apart and essentially ruined (by FAA standards).  I took it apart, honed the bore, filed off the rough edges on the piston, put in new o-rings and snap rings, and filled it with automatic transmission fluid (ATF).  Total cost less than $2.<br/><br/>
had a hydraulic shimmy damper on their nosegear.  I examined and took photos
 
of an older 150 and 172 to see how they did it.  The same guy gave me a
 
discarded damper that someone had tried to get apart and essentially ruined
 
(by FAA standards).  I took it apart, honed the bore, filed off the rough
 
edges on the piston, put in new o-rings and snap rings, and filled it with
 
automatic transmission fluid (ATF).  Total cost less than $2.<br/><br/>
 
  
I made up the mounting hardware initially from cereal box cardboard to get a
+
I made up the mounting hardware initially from cereal box cardboard to get a general idea of fit and then from thin Al (quick and easy to modify) only strong enough so that I could check geometry.  Finally, I made up what you see in the photos from 1/8 inch mild steel ( I do not have any chrome-moly plate).<br/><br/>
general idea of fit and then from thin Al (quick and easy to modify) only
 
strong enough so that I could check geometry.  Finally, I made up what you
 
see in the photos from 1/8 inch mild steel ( I do not have any chrome-moly
 
plate).<br/><br/>
 
  
I took (rotary) drag data for both the original Belview setup and for the
+
I took (rotary) drag data for both the original Belview setup and for the Cessna damper.  It became immediately apparent that the ATF was too thin so I replaced it with Shell 100 (50 wt) aircraft oil.  This stiffened it up considerably and that what I am currently using.<br/><br/>
Cessna damper.  It became immediately apparent that the ATF was too thin
 
so I replaced it with Shell 100 (50 wt) aircraft oil.  This stiffened it up
 
considerably and that what I am currently using.<br/><br/>
 
  
It was during the initial fit-up process that I discovered that the fork is
+
It was during the initial fit-up process that I discovered that the fork is bent bad.  I noticed it when I was pulling (by hand (dump-valve open)) the whole gear up into the nose of the plane to check for fit.  One side of the wheel (lightly) dragged on one of the two alignment "posts" (I don't know the official name for these).  I considered trying to straighten it but I don't have a large enough press to do that sort of work so I ordered a new one.  It has since arrived but I am still experimenting with the original as
bent bad.  I noticed it when I was pulling (by hand (dump-valve open))
+
it works ok... just looks a little strange.  The new fork is considerably stronger than my old original.<br/><br/>
the whole gear up into the nose of the plane to check for fit.  One side of
 
the wheel (lightly) dragged on one of the two alignment "posts" (I don't
 
know the official name for these).  I considered trying to straighten it but
 
I don't have a large enough press to do that sort of work so I ordered a new
 
one.  It has since arrived but I am still experimenting with the original as
 
it works ok... just looks a little strange.  The new fork is considerably
 
stronger than my old original.<br/><br/>
 
  
 
Ok, time for taxi testing.  Big nut backed-off as before.  Two high-speed
 
Ok, time for taxi testing.  Big nut backed-off as before.  Two high-speed
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easily.  This may be a keeper.<br/><br/>
 
easily.  This may be a keeper.<br/><br/>
  
**********<br/><br/>
+
<br/><br/>
  
> Whats the turning radius with the damper connected?<br/><br/>
+
Q: Whats the turning radius with the damper connected?<br/><br/>
  
Don't know the aircraft turning radius but the measured swing of the wheel  
+
A: Don't know the aircraft turning radius but the measured swing of the wheel  
 
is about 45 deg  left, 30 deg right.  Obviously, I don't have the geometry  
 
is about 45 deg  left, 30 deg right.  Obviously, I don't have the geometry  
 
correct but it does what I need.  Between my hanger and the taxiway is a 90  
 
correct but it does what I need.  Between my hanger and the taxiway is a 90  
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adjustments.<br/><br/>
 
adjustments.<br/><br/>
  
> When turning in tight quarters do you bottom out or top out on the damper  
+
Q: When turning in tight quarters do you bottom out or top out on the damper often? No worries the damper would break from over extending?
> often?
 
> No worries the damper would break from over extending?
 
  
For the above mentioned turns, I feel no indication that I have hit the  
+
A: For the above mentioned turns, I feel no indication that I have hit the  
 
ends.<br/><br/>
 
ends.<br/><br/>
  
> How big is that damper?  It looks big in the picture,  got a part number?<br/><br/>
+
Q: How big is that damper?  It looks big in the picture,  got a part number?<br/><br/>
  
It is a damper off of some older model Cessna that a friend had in the scrap  
+
A: It is a damper off of some older model Cessna that a friend had in the scrap  
 
pile because someone had "ruined" it (by certified standards) trying to get  
 
pile because someone had "ruined" it (by certified standards) trying to get  
 
it apart and damaged the piston and bore.  I cleaned it up, got some o-rings  
 
it apart and damaged the piston and bore.  I cleaned it up, got some o-rings  

Revision as of 01:06, 8 May 2008

Here's the shimmy dampener system that Sid Knox devised.

Rear View


Dampening Curve



end repeat message (partial)

"Nose wheel shimmy. One of the recurring irritations of an otherwise great airplane is the nosewheel anti-shimmy scheme. Velocity forum readers may recall this subject comes up periodically, stirs up a few people, and then dies with the generally lame advise to keep the Belville washers clean and tightened to some seemingly arbitrary value and stop whining.

To get into my hanger I must make a sharp 120 degree right followed immediately by a left 90. Sometimes I make it and sometimes I end up out in the weeds.

After the last time, I finally decided I was pissed enough to try and do something about it (no, not get another hanger)."


end repeat message (partial)

After two years, no problems... the only thing I would do different next time would be to make it look a little better.


more notes

One of the local knowledgeable mechanics reminded me that Cessna for years had a hydraulic shimmy damper on their nosegear. I examined and took photos of an older 150 and 172 to see how they did it. The same guy gave me a discarded damper that someone had tried to get apart and essentially ruined (by FAA standards). I took it apart, honed the bore, filed off the rough edges on the piston, put in new o-rings and snap rings, and filled it with automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Total cost less than $2.

I made up the mounting hardware initially from cereal box cardboard to get a general idea of fit and then from thin Al (quick and easy to modify) only strong enough so that I could check geometry. Finally, I made up what you see in the photos from 1/8 inch mild steel ( I do not have any chrome-moly plate).

I took (rotary) drag data for both the original Belview setup and for the Cessna damper. It became immediately apparent that the ATF was too thin so I replaced it with Shell 100 (50 wt) aircraft oil. This stiffened it up considerably and that what I am currently using.

It was during the initial fit-up process that I discovered that the fork is bent bad. I noticed it when I was pulling (by hand (dump-valve open)) the whole gear up into the nose of the plane to check for fit. One side of the wheel (lightly) dragged on one of the two alignment "posts" (I don't know the official name for these). I considered trying to straighten it but I don't have a large enough press to do that sort of work so I ordered a new one. It has since arrived but I am still experimenting with the original as it works ok... just looks a little strange. The new fork is considerably stronger than my old original.

Ok, time for taxi testing. Big nut backed-off as before. Two high-speed runs (fast enough to fly the canard and let it plop) and no shimmy. Time to go around the pattern. Take-off, no shimmy. Retracted the gear. lights out. Extend the gear. both lights ok. Landed and let it roll for awhile and still no shimmy. Taxied back, made both sharp turns into the hanger easily. This may be a keeper.



Q: Whats the turning radius with the damper connected?

A: Don't know the aircraft turning radius but the measured swing of the wheel is about 45 deg left, 30 deg right. Obviously, I don't have the geometry correct but it does what I need. Between my hanger and the taxiway is a 90 deg turn followed immediately by a 120 deg turn in the opposite direction. Before (using the Belview washers), it was a major pain-in-the-butt negoiating these turns... often going off into the grass. Now, with the free-turning nosewheel, it is simple. And, no shimmy, no worrying about adjustments.

Q: When turning in tight quarters do you bottom out or top out on the damper often? No worries the damper would break from over extending?

A: For the above mentioned turns, I feel no indication that I have hit the ends.

Q: How big is that damper? It looks big in the picture, got a part number?

A: It is a damper off of some older model Cessna that a friend had in the scrap pile because someone had "ruined" it (by certified standards) trying to get it apart and damaged the piston and bore. I cleaned it up, got some o-rings from AutoZone and it feels good as new. I am using Shell 100 for a working fluid. I tried hudraulic oil (John Deere) but because of the scoring in the bore, it did not damp as much as I wanted...it had essentially two orfices... the proper one and the score. So, the heavier oil compensates for the higher internal bypass. There is *no* leakage to the outside.

This is probably not a good mod if one must buy a good damper as they are

  • very* expensive! (typical Certified B.S. pricing).


Sid Knox
Oklahoma

Velocity 173 RG N199RS
Starduster N666SK
KR2 N24TC
W7QJQ