Difference between revisions of "Nose Wheel Shimmy Dampener"
| Line 26: | Line 26: | ||
time would be to | time would be to | ||
make it look a little better. | make it look a little better. | ||
| + | |||
| + | <hr/> | ||
| + | <center>more notes</center> | ||
| + | <hr/> | ||
| + | One of the local knowledgeable mechanics reminded me that Cessna for years | ||
| + | had a hydraulic shimmy damper on their nosegear. I examined and took photos | ||
| + | of an older 150 and 172 to see how they did it. The same guy gave me a | ||
| + | discarded damper that someone had tried to get apart and essentially ruined | ||
| + | (by FAA standards). I took it apart, honed the bore, filed off the rough | ||
| + | edges on the piston, put in new o-rings and snap rings, and filled it with | ||
| + | automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Total cost less than $2.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | I made up the mounting hardware initially from cereal box cardboard to get a | ||
| + | general idea of fit and then from thin Al (quick and easy to modify) only | ||
| + | strong enough so that I could check geometry. Finally, I made up what you | ||
| + | see in the photos from 1/8 inch mild steel ( I do not have any chrome-moly | ||
| + | plate).<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | I took (rotary) drag data for both the original Belview setup and for the | ||
| + | Cessna damper. It became immediately apparent that the ATF was too thin | ||
| + | so I replaced it with Shell 100 (50 wt) aircraft oil. This stiffened it up | ||
| + | considerably and that what I am currently using.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | It was during the initial fit-up process that I discovered that the fork is | ||
| + | bent bad. I noticed it when I was pulling (by hand (dump-valve open)) | ||
| + | the whole gear up into the nose of the plane to check for fit. One side of | ||
| + | the wheel (lightly) dragged on one of the two alignment "posts" (I don't | ||
| + | know the official name for these). I considered trying to straighten it but | ||
| + | I don't have a large enough press to do that sort of work so I ordered a new | ||
| + | one. It has since arrived but I am still experimenting with the original as | ||
| + | it works ok... just looks a little strange. The new fork is considerably | ||
| + | stronger than my old original.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | Ok, time for taxi testing. Big nut backed-off as before. Two high-speed | ||
| + | runs (fast enough to fly the canard and let it plop) and no shimmy. Time to | ||
| + | go around the pattern. Take-off, no shimmy. Retracted the gear. lights | ||
| + | out. Extend the gear. both lights ok. Landed and let it roll for awhile | ||
| + | and still no shimmy. Taxied back, made both sharp turns into the hanger | ||
| + | easily. This may be a keeper.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | **********<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | > Whats the turning radius with the damper connected?<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | Don't know the aircraft turning radius but the measured swing of the wheel | ||
| + | is about 45 deg left, 30 deg right. Obviously, I don't have the geometry | ||
| + | correct but it does what I need. Between my hanger and the taxiway is a 90 | ||
| + | deg turn followed immediately by a 120 deg turn in the opposite direction. | ||
| + | Before (using the Belview washers), it was a major pain-in-the-butt | ||
| + | negoiating these turns... often going off into the grass. Now, with the | ||
| + | free-turning nosewheel, it is simple. And, no shimmy, no worrying about | ||
| + | adjustments.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | > When turning in tight quarters do you bottom out or top out on the damper | ||
| + | > often? | ||
| + | > No worries the damper would break from over extending? | ||
| + | |||
| + | For the above mentioned turns, I feel no indication that I have hit the | ||
| + | ends.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | > How big is that damper? It looks big in the picture, got a part number?<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | It is a damper off of some older model Cessna that a friend had in the scrap | ||
| + | pile because someone had "ruined" it (by certified standards) trying to get | ||
| + | it apart and damaged the piston and bore. I cleaned it up, got some o-rings | ||
| + | from AutoZone and it feels good as new. I am using Shell 100 for a working | ||
| + | fluid. I tried hudraulic oil (John Deere) but because of the scoring in the | ||
| + | bore, it did not damp as much as I wanted...it had essentially two | ||
| + | orfices... the proper one and the score. So, the heavier oil compensates | ||
| + | for the higher internal bypass. There is *no* leakage to the outside.<br/><br/> | ||
| + | |||
| + | This is probably not a good mod if one must buy a good damper as they are | ||
| + | *very* expensive! (typical Certified B.S. pricing).<br/><br/> | ||
| + | <hr/> | ||
Sid Knox<br/> | Sid Knox<br/> | ||
Revision as of 01:03, 8 May 2008
Here's the shimmy dampener system that Sid Knox devised.
"Nose wheel shimmy.
One of the recurring irritations of an otherwise great airplane is the
nosewheel anti-shimmy scheme. Velocity forum readers may recall this subject
comes up periodically, stirs up a few people, and then dies with the
generally lame advise to keep the Belview washers clean and tightened to
some seemingly arbitrary value and stop whining.
To get into my hanger I must make a sharp 120 degree right followed
immediately by a left 90. Sometimes I make it and sometimes I end up out in
the weeds.
After the last time, I finally decided I was pissed enough to try and do something about it (no, not get another hanger)."
After two years, no problems... the only thing I would do different next time would be to make it look a little better.
One of the local knowledgeable mechanics reminded me that Cessna for years
had a hydraulic shimmy damper on their nosegear. I examined and took photos
of an older 150 and 172 to see how they did it. The same guy gave me a
discarded damper that someone had tried to get apart and essentially ruined
(by FAA standards). I took it apart, honed the bore, filed off the rough
edges on the piston, put in new o-rings and snap rings, and filled it with
automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Total cost less than $2.
I made up the mounting hardware initially from cereal box cardboard to get a
general idea of fit and then from thin Al (quick and easy to modify) only
strong enough so that I could check geometry. Finally, I made up what you
see in the photos from 1/8 inch mild steel ( I do not have any chrome-moly
plate).
I took (rotary) drag data for both the original Belview setup and for the
Cessna damper. It became immediately apparent that the ATF was too thin
so I replaced it with Shell 100 (50 wt) aircraft oil. This stiffened it up
considerably and that what I am currently using.
It was during the initial fit-up process that I discovered that the fork is
bent bad. I noticed it when I was pulling (by hand (dump-valve open))
the whole gear up into the nose of the plane to check for fit. One side of
the wheel (lightly) dragged on one of the two alignment "posts" (I don't
know the official name for these). I considered trying to straighten it but
I don't have a large enough press to do that sort of work so I ordered a new
one. It has since arrived but I am still experimenting with the original as
it works ok... just looks a little strange. The new fork is considerably
stronger than my old original.
Ok, time for taxi testing. Big nut backed-off as before. Two high-speed
runs (fast enough to fly the canard and let it plop) and no shimmy. Time to
go around the pattern. Take-off, no shimmy. Retracted the gear. lights
out. Extend the gear. both lights ok. Landed and let it roll for awhile
and still no shimmy. Taxied back, made both sharp turns into the hanger
easily. This may be a keeper.
> Whats the turning radius with the damper connected?
Don't know the aircraft turning radius but the measured swing of the wheel
is about 45 deg left, 30 deg right. Obviously, I don't have the geometry
correct but it does what I need. Between my hanger and the taxiway is a 90
deg turn followed immediately by a 120 deg turn in the opposite direction.
Before (using the Belview washers), it was a major pain-in-the-butt
negoiating these turns... often going off into the grass. Now, with the
free-turning nosewheel, it is simple. And, no shimmy, no worrying about
adjustments.
> When turning in tight quarters do you bottom out or top out on the damper > often? > No worries the damper would break from over extending?
For the above mentioned turns, I feel no indication that I have hit the
ends.
> How big is that damper? It looks big in the picture, got a part number?
It is a damper off of some older model Cessna that a friend had in the scrap
pile because someone had "ruined" it (by certified standards) trying to get
it apart and damaged the piston and bore. I cleaned it up, got some o-rings
from AutoZone and it feels good as new. I am using Shell 100 for a working
fluid. I tried hudraulic oil (John Deere) but because of the scoring in the
bore, it did not damp as much as I wanted...it had essentially two
orfices... the proper one and the score. So, the heavier oil compensates
for the higher internal bypass. There is *no* leakage to the outside.
This is probably not a good mod if one must buy a good damper as they are
- very* expensive! (typical Certified B.S. pricing).
Sid Knox
Oklahoma
Velocity 173 RG N199RS
Starduster N666SK
KR2 N24TC
W7QJQ
